7 days in Lefkada: the itinerary I would give a friend
The great western beaches, a full day at sea, a waterfall, mountain villages and enough slack for it to still feel like a holiday. Polished over years of "Ema, what do we do today?".
When a friend comes to the island for the first time, I always hand over the same 7-day plan. I've polished it over years of "Ema, what do we do today?" and it balances everything: the great western beaches, a day at sea, mountains, villages and enough slack for it to still feel like a holiday.
Follow it to the letter or use it as a skeleton. Distances are short, nothing is set in stone.
Day 1: arrival and the town
Arrive, unpack, and in the evening head to Lefkada Town: a stroll down the pedestrian street, an ice cream on the waterfront and your first souvlaki. Plan nothing ambitious today, the journey makes itself felt.
Day 2: Kathisma and the Agios Nikitas sunset
Start with the "gentle" west: Kathisma has fine sand, sunbeds, beach bars and is the most convenient of the big beaches. In the afternoon drop into Agios Nikitas, a village the size of a palm, for dinner and the sunset.
See Kathisma beach →
Day 3: Porto Katsiki and Egremni
The day of the great beaches demands an early start: you want to reach Porto Katsiki before 10, while the car park still breathes and the light falls perfectly on the white cliff. After lunch, Egremni, with its many steps and unreal blue water.
Bring water, good footwear for the steps and keep the evening free: after a day like this, a taverna near home is all you will want.
See Porto Katsiki beach →
Day 4: at sea, to Meganisi and Skorpios
Everyone's favourite day. From Nidri harbour you set off in the morning towards Meganisi and the surrounding islands: caves, coves where the water is pool-coloured, swimming stops in open water. Snorkelling masks are not optional.
See the boat tour →.jpg)
Day 5: the Dimosari waterfall and the south-east bays
In the morning, a short walk through the shaded gorge to the Dimosari waterfall. In summer it carries little water, but the gorge itself is worth the trip. In the afternoon, laze in the calm bays of Desimi or Mikros Gialos, where the olive shade reaches almost to the water.
See Desimi beach →
Day 6: Vasiliki and Agiofili
Head south to Vasiliki. From there, the taxi boat drops you in minutes on Agiofili, a jewel hidden between the rocks. In the afternoon, back at the harbour, the windsurfers' colourful sails are a show in themselves, best watched with a cold coffee in hand.
See the Agiofili trip →
Day 7: the mountain villages and the last evening
Save the last day for the island's interior: Karya with its plane trees and embroidery, the roads through the olive groves, a tasting of local oil and wine. In the evening, return to the west coast for one last sunset. You leave the next day with the best possible image in your mind.
See the mountain villages tour →Frequently asked questions
Can the itinerary be done without a car?
With difficulty. Boat trips and transfers cover part of it, but for the west and the villages you need a car. Rent one at least for days 2, 3 and 7.
Which day works best for children?
The boat day, and the bays of day 5. Egremni has a lot of steps; with small children, swap it for another morning at Kathisma.
What if I only have 5 days?
Drop day 3 or day 7, depending on what you love more: spectacular beaches, or villages and food.
Planning your Lefkada holiday?
Tell Ema what you're looking for. She lives on the island and only recommends stays she has seen with her own eyes, so you get a personal answer, not an automated one.
Explore the staysMore from the journal
Lefkada with kids: gentle beaches, calm bays and Ema's tips
Where the water entry is gentle, where to find shade at noon and which activities genuinely work with little ones. The family guide, built from parents' questions.
Where to stay in Lefkada: Nidri, Nikiana or the west coast?
The east is calm with everything on foot, the west has the beaches from the photos. An honest guide to Lefkada's areas, and my advice for a first visit.
When to visit Lefkada: a month-by-month guide from May to October
May is green and quiet, August is full of life, September has the warmest sea. What each month looks like on the island, told by someone who lives here all year.